Shelley Seale is a freelance journalist and author.
Website: http://www.shelleyseale.com
Blog: http://tradingplacesglobal.wordpress.com/
Book: http://www.howtotravelforfree.net
Twitter: @shelleyseale
Facebook: www.facebook.com/shelleyseale
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Shelley Seale is a freelance journalist and author.
Website: http://www.shelleyseale.com
Blog: http://tradingplacesglobal.wordpress.com/
Book: http://www.howtotravelforfree.net
Twitter: @shelleyseale
Facebook: www.facebook.com/shelleyseale
The Garden of Eden in Bocas del Toro is a hidden, pristine and very private getaway, that feels very remote in this archipelago of ten islands on the Caribbean coast of Panama - yet it is easily accessible. Only a few places around the world have been able to retain the particular atmosphere and authenticity of Bocas del Toro: seductive, primitive and unforgettable. It is a haven for snorkelers and divers, with crystal-clear impossibly turquoise waters and rainforest ecology; it's also one of the most multi-cultural places in Panama. In Bocas, you have the option of staying on the main island, Isla Colon - the site of the only real town, Bocas Town, and its selection of bars, restaurants and shops. Although Bocas del Toro has become quite popular with indie travelers in recent years, relatively low-key development has left an authenticity an unpolished vibe that is highly appealing to those looking to escape beach destinations full of mega-resorts.
Or, you can take a water taxi out to one of the other islands which are quieter and more secluded - some more than others. A 20 minute water taxi ride from Bocas Town will bring you to the Garden of Eden on Isla Solarte - a small three-room property that offers a true getaway-from-it-all in paradise. Technically, Garden of Eden is not even an actual part of Isla Solarte, but its own tiny island connected to Solarte by mangroves.
Stepping out of the boat onto the Garden of Eden dock, you will likely be met by Kip the owner and Zeus, the exuberant dog. The grounds are small but lush and gorgeous, with little paths that wind up to the rooms, dining area, pool, game room, and also down to a boat dock on the back side that is good for swimming and kayaking.
The three rooms are simple but comfortable, and offer private decks with that essential island item: hammocks. At Garden of Eden you can have all the remote downtime you want; but it's also relatively easy to make your way around the Bocas archipelago to do activities. Keep in mind that it's a 20-minute water taxi ride to Bocas Town if you want some shopping or nightlife, and you need to arrange for a ride ahead of time. You can also take boats to neighboring islands for beaches and other restaurants, or if you're up to a 30-45 minute kayak trip you can take the property kayaks across to Isla Bastimentos where there is a marina, restaurants and several beaches. Isla Bastimentos is also home to the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos, Panama’s oldest marine park. Tours of all sorts are available for snorkeling, diving, fishing, jungle exploration and cultural experiences with indigenous villages.
And of course, just hanging at the peaceful Garden of Eden or swimming in the pool are laudable pastimes. The property is Adults Only, and with just three bungalows it's easy to rent the whole place with a few friends. The Garden of Eden offers quiet, upscale accommodations , free hi-speed internet access, and a full service bar and restaurant. Two cabanas are located adjacent to the pool, with queen size beds and a futon that can open to a full size bed; private bathroom with hot and cold rain water showers; and a veranda with a hammock and chairs to enjoy a fabulous panoramic view of the bay. The third room is a suite with both a king and a queen sized bed, private bathroom with hot and cold rain water shower, and a large deck with a hammock, lounge chairs and a ceiling fan.
Rates are $150-170 per night for two people, including continental breakfast.
Top 5 Eco-Friendly Ways to Explore Gulf Shores & Orange Beach, Alabama
The 32 miles of sugar-white beaches along Alabama’s Gulf Coast shoreline is a family-oriented destination that offers great nature and outdoors adventures, some of the most fantastic seafood in the U.S., and plenty of child-friendly activities.
The sister cities of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach lie a true island, 27,000 acres separated from the mainland by the Intracoastal Waterway, and offering nearly 400,000 acres of protected back bay waters.
State and local Alabama officials are doing more to promote Gulf Coast Alabama ecotourism activities, including an Ecotourism Summit, Coastal Cleanup and a sea turtle monitoring program. The beaches here are consistently rated among the best in the United States. Here’s our road map for how to best enjoy their natural resources with your family.
Hike or Bike Wildlife Refuges
This area is a bounty for nature lovers, and the best way to experience it is often on foot or by pedal. Rent a bike from Beach Bike Rentals and hop directly on one of six trails that make up the Hugh S. Branyon Backcountry Trail, 11 miles of paved paths that are home to six distinct ecosystems. Rare and threatened plant communities, incredible bird sightings, a variety of small mammals and even alligators can all be sighted from cycling trails easy enough for most ages.
Or visit the Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1980 to protect the coastal dune ecosystem and its endangered species. Coming from the French for “safe harbor,” these 7,000 acres of wildlife habitat are easily accessible via multiple trails, and a launch site for canoes and kayaks is planned for summer 2013. Designated as one of Alabama’s Ten Natural Wonders, Bon Secour charges no entry fees.
Get on the Water for an Informative Nature Cruise
The water is clearly the pull here. Bill and Cheryl Mitchell of Cetacean Cruises run dolphin and nature cruises on their custom pontoon boat, at a very affordable $15 and up. Spotting the area’s playful dolphins is always exciting, but Captain Bill is extremely knowledgeable and protective of them. “They have the intelligence of an eight-year-old human,” he explains. “If you love dolphins and want to see a sustainable practice, you’ve come to the right place.” Cetacean is the only area company that passed the test to become certified for the Dolphin SMART program from the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration.
For a completely different on-the-water experience, climb aboard with Captain Skip of Sailaway Charters. On a 2-3 hour sailing adventure, Skip shows his guest how to go crabbing and shrimping, as well as various oyster techniques and bird identification. You will very likely also spot dolphin trailing along behind the boat for the leftovers.
Captain your own boat in a Kayak
For a more independent experience, you can grab your own kayak and glide along the peaceful estuaries of Graham Creek Nature Preserve in nearby Foley. These 484 acres of southern gothic waterway wind in and out of marsh grasses and larger bodies of water, with ancient water oaks lining the banks while pelicans and great blue herons fly overhead. Once out in more open water, you’re likely to spot bottlenose dolphin. You can rent your own kayak to launch from the Graham Creek launching dock, or set up with an experienced guide such as Certified Master Naturalist Carol Furman, through Fairhope Boat Company.
Relax on Sugar White Beaches
When all of the outdoor adventures and physical activity has worn you out, it’s the perfect time to recharge on the sands that the island is famous for. Turquoise water meets soft white sand that curves gently up into grass-covered dunes. The city of Orange Beach has three Gulf State Park beach areas, and Gulf Shores has eight. Most offer public restrooms, showers, picnic tables or pavilions and miles of pristine beach. Some, like Lake Shelby, Cotton Bayou and Gulf Shores Public Beach, have more activity going on with people fishing, water skiing, boating or playing volleyball. Others are more secluded and quiet—if that’s your thing, try Florida Point, Gulf State Park or the beach at Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge.
Eating Sustainably
When it comes dining out—and nighttime entertainment—your eco-vacation doesn’t have to go awry. At Lucy Buffett’s Lulu’s at Homeport, run by the sister of famous parrothead Jimmy Buffett, sustainability is an important part of both the food and the business operation. They serve only grass-fed, Alabama-raised beef and sustainably-caught fish—diners are even provided a website where they can see exactly where their fish was caught. Lulu’s also received the prestigious Seventh Generation Award from the Dauphin Island Sea Lab in 2009, given annually to the person or organization that embodies the tenets of sustainability, stewardship and pro-active practice in considering our natural resources.
Lulu’s was recognized for, among other things, its installation of an environmentally-friendly windmill and being one of the first public venues to incorporate the rain garden concept into their parking lots, dramatically improving the quality of stormwater runoff into the Intracoastal Waterway. “With the volume of business that we have enjoyed in Gulf Shores, it was a natural progression for us to think of how we could operate from a more environmentally friendly point of view to help take care of the absolutely gorgeous natural beauty of Gulf Shores,” said Buffett. “What we have done at LuLu’s has brought awareness and sparked conversations between all types of people and agencies. Plus, it is just a lot of fun.”
Alma del Pacifico, on one of Costa Rica's most beautiful stretches of beach, exudes an auto of luxury and privacy in a completely relaxed setting without pretension. The small boutique property of 20 suites reflects Costa Rica’s colorful culture, with spacious villas in a post-modern Californian style and lush tropical gardens right on an incredible stretch of oceanfront. The hotel has created a spot that works for both families and couples on a romantic getaway, with a rejuvenating spa and above-average restaurant. When the sun starts to sink, go for a stroll along the wide glassy sands, order a mojito from the bar and watch the spectacular sunset.
Each of the 20 guest villas is uniquely designed, in the distinctive bold style of architect and former owner Sherrill Broudy: a dynamic open-plan space, flooded with light, with slabs of rich colour. A high curving wooden ceiling echoes the sea and creates a soothing airy feeling, as does the private, walled terrace of each room. The walls are adorned in Sherrill's wife Charlene’s unique paintings and rugs in saturated colours, reflecting her love of the natural tropical world. The effect is warm and welcoming and very individual: the antithesis of bland hotel rooms!
There are 5 grades of villa, starting with Garden Bungalow, which although lovely, don't have sea views. We'd definitely recommend splashing out on one of the beachfront options for that instant uplifting feeling in the morning, and lounging on your private terrace in the late afternoon. Of these, Beachfront Bungalows are the smallest, though these are already huge and include 28 feet of beachfront. Beachfront Villas are even larger and the Deluxe Beachfront Villas feature a private plunge pool on their terraces.
As well as the comfortable kingsize beds (or 2 doubles) each room has a long generous couch that is also a daybed, a desk space and books and magazines to peruse. Lighting is excellent and candles are provided, too - both for atmosphere, and in case of power cuts! All rooms are superbly equipped with all kinds of thoughtful details, from fresh fruit and flowers when you arrive to complimentary snacks, coffee and soft drinks in the minibar.
Bathrooms are particularly generous (most with 2 sinks); we loved the wonderful wide curved shower area in Sherrill Broudy’s signature style, with hand-mosaiced tiles and views to a private garden. There’s air-conditioning as well as fans and blinds, bathrobes, hairdryers, umbrellas, torches for walking around the gardens at night, iPod docking stations, good wardrobe space, and a safe big enough for a laptop.
Best of all? Your view of the ocean from your private patio - a good outdoor space, with perfect views onto the surf. Here there are 2 recliners and a table, outside lights and a blind to shut out early morning light should you require it.
New to Alma del Pacifico are three larger vacation rental options, located one-and-a-half miles from the main property and perfect for families or large groups. Casa Mono Loco and Casa Mirador are both set on the ridge line with breathtaking ocean and rainforest views; they each have three bedrooms and three baths, gourmet kitchen and private infinity pools. There are also several three bedroom luxury condos, with two master suites, expansive verandahs, exotic teak floors and gourmet kitchens. Guests of the vacation rentals have full access to all hotel facilities; a car is highly recommended, or guests would feel quite stranded.
The open-air, thatched roof Pavilion Restaurant offers great views of the ocean surf crashing to shore. Generous space between tables ensures that each group feels private, and there are sweet flower arrangements throughout. A continental breakfast is included in the tariff, including freshly squeezed juice, coffee or tea, a platter of seasonal fruit, and choice of breakfast breads with butter and preserves. Other menu options (at an extra charge) include omelets, pancakes, a nice selection of a la carte items, and a Tico-style local breakfast with gallo pinto, fried plantains and tortillas. The Lunch and Dinner menus offer international and Costa Rican cuisine, with an emphasis on local and healthy ingredients that makes use of sustainable seafood and produce. Many of the fruits, vegetables and herbs are grown in the colourful gardens on-site. There’s a good selection of sandwiches, salads, pizza and pasta, hot dishes and cold options - the salads are particularly recommended. Snacks (bocas) can be eaten all day: the guacamole is excellent.
Alma del Pacifico offers the perfect setting to be as active as you want, or simply relax and do nothing. Options for activities include:
Details:
Alma del Pacifico
Playa Esterillos Este, Parrita, Puntarenas
Central Pacific Coast, Costa Rica
888-960-ALMA / (506) 2778-7070
Boquete, Panama has become one of those "it" places that expats have been flocking to relocate to in recent decades. Fortunately, it is still under the radar of places such as Costa Rica and Cuenca, Ecuador; and still retains an authenticity, a low-key vibe, that keep it from simply being gringo-land in Central America. The cool mountain climate, stunning views, great hiking and coffee farming draw short-term tourists, retiring Central Americans and Western expats alike.
Two of these expats are Jane Walker and Barry Robbins from Vancouver, Canada. The couple left their home and stressful lifestyles in high-tech nearly twenty years ago, heading south to Central America yet unsure of where they would finally settle. "As we drove out of the parking lot, I just let go," Jane recalls of their exodus from North America. "The life we were leading was being left behind. I didn't know where we were going, but I knew it would be different."
After a year and a half of exploring the region, they settled in Boquete in 1996 and found six acres of land that was a defunct coffee and orange farm. There, they built La Montaña y el Valle - The Coffee Estate Inn, the first luxury inn in the Boquete area, in a mere 10 months.
The Coffee Estate Inn is exquisite and magical; you can look at the photos and videos online, but they don't prepare you for the riot of flowers and colors and scents that envelop you the second you drive through the gate. Jane and Barry have been avid gardeners all their life, using it as an escape from stresses of the job back in Canada. "We would garden just about as frantically as we worked," Barry says. "So instead of taking the enjoyment and that soul-fulfilling thing of working in the soil, it was just covering up an absence in the rest of our lives." But for the past 18 years, the couple has found their calling and turned their passion for gardening into a labor of love, creating the stunning oasis that is their inn.
"There's no 'growing season' here," Jane says. "You pick up a plant and stick it in the ground, and it simply grows. It's truly a gardener's paradise. It's right for us, right here." Luckily for the rest of us, we have the opportunity to live that paradise if only for a short while. Three very private, luxurious bungalows are the only rooms at the inn, and the couple has thought of every small detail to make the stay wonderful and memorable - right down to heated floors in the bathrooms for those chilly mountain mornings.
There are many very good reasons why VISIONTV out of Canada picked the inn for its "Recreating Eden" television series. The episode featuring Jane, Barry and their Coffee Estate Inn has been syndicated and shown on the Knowledge Network in Canada since January 2008.
The Coffee Estate Inn sits high up on a hill a few kilometers above the town of Boquete, so it is both secluded and peaceful as well as a quick, convenient drive into town as well as local hiking trails and other day trips. Jane and Barry provide loads of detailed information, both during the arrival orientation as well as in the information book left in each guest room; and they always make themselves available to answer questions or provide guests with area information. You can also take a coffee tour of the farm with Barry, who explains the process of coffee farming and roasting, along with interesting tidbits about the gardens in general and life in Panama. The tour is included in stays of three or more nights.
The Coffee Estate Inn remains a small and exclusive hotel by choice. The bright and airy bungalows face the volcano and have spectacular views. All are surrounded and separated by gardens and forest. Each bungalow has a large covered terrace, spacious living room and dining area, kitchenette, separate bedroom with ensuite bathroom, flat screen television with satellite TV and DVD, security safe and free high speed wireless Internet. Windows are screened. Each bungalow also has a fully stocked kitchenette with toaster oven, microwave, mini-fridge and of course - a personal supply of the estate's personally roasted coffee beans, never more than three days out of the roaster.
"Coffee is one of those things that just gets in your blood," says Barry. "This is the place we want to be. This is home."
Rates are $180 per night, per couple using the special internet rate; private breakfast left in the room for each morning is included.